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Aesthetic Medicine · debunking myths

Why cheap polynucleotides can end up costing more — on the importance of authenticity

Several beliefs about polynucleotides sound reasonable but lead straight to poor decisions. We break them down one by one — because product authenticity isn't marketing. It's safety.

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Polynucleotides are one of the most rapidly developing directions in aesthetic medicine today. These substances, extracted from sea fish DNA, trigger regeneration processes in tissue. That's not something to choose carelessly. Yet the internet is full of offers promising "the same results at a lower price". It's worth looking closely before you end up at a salon that cuts corners where corners shouldn't be cut. We've gathered the six myths we hear most often — and explain what's really behind them.

Where does the myth of the "cheap equivalent" come from

Polynucleotides are a category, not a single product. The same name covers products with different purity levels, different molecular weights, different degrees of DNA processing and different sterilisation methods. All of these parameters determine whether your body treats the substance as something to work with, or triggers an inflammatory response instead. The myth of the "cheap equivalent" comes from the fact that the active substance sounds the same on paper. The differences are invisible to the naked eye. They are, however, very real — and measurable.

Six myths, one by one

Myth 1: "Polynucleotides are polynucleotides — they all do the same thing". Fact: this name covers products with radically different parameters. Differences in molecular weight affect how deeply the product penetrates tissue. Differences in purity determine whether an unwanted inflammatory reaction occurs. Differences in sterilisation and storage change biological activity. Two products with the same name can behave completely differently in tissue — and produce completely different results, or none at all.

Myth 2: "A lower price just means a lower margin for the salon". Fact: the price of an original product is high for a specific reason. Clinical trials, certification, a cold supply chain, strict quality control of every production batch — all of this costs money. A "no-name" product, or one sourced outside the official distribution channel, skips some of these costs because it skips some of these processes. A lower purchase price for a salon means something was left out along the way. The only question is what.

Myth 3: "The results look the same, so the product must be the same". Fact: the aesthetic results visible after one session aren't enough to judge product quality. A good product keeps working in the tissue for weeks, triggering biostimulation processes. A low-quality product may deliver short-term hydration — a water effect in the tissue — that looks similar at first. Then it disappears without a trace, or an unwanted reaction appears. The real difference shows over time: after the third session, after a year, once you can see whether the tissue actually rebuilt itself.

Myth 4: "If the salon has a good reputation, the product must be good too". Fact: a salon's reputation and a product's authenticity are two separate matters. Even reputable places sometimes cut corners quietly — a change of supplier, imports through unofficial channels, a substitute "with the same composition". If you ask directly about the product name and its manufacturer, you're entitled to a straight answer. If a salon hesitates or avoids the topic, that tells you something in itself.

Myth 5: "Polynucleotides are safe, so product quality doesn't affect safety". Fact: certified polynucleotides are considered among the safer products in aesthetic medicine — they have a very good tolerance profile and minimal potential for serious complications. That statement doesn't automatically apply to every product sold under this name, though. A low-quality product can trigger tissue reactivity, inflammation, and in extreme cases, allergic reactions. Safety doesn't lie in the name. It lies in the certificate.

Myth 6: "Study results for one product apply to the whole category". Fact: in medicine, every medicinal product has its own clinical trials. Results for product A don't automatically transfer to product B, even if both are labelled "polynucleotides". This matters especially when comparing established, well-studied brands with new products that have just entered the market, or — worse — have no certification at all.

What actually sets an original product apart from a substitute

Three things say more about product quality than any advertisement. Certification and country of registration — an original product is registered as a medical device or medicinal product in the country where it's used. It carries a certificate number, and the manufacturer takes responsibility for every batch. Batch documentation — a legitimate distributor provides analytical documentation confirming the product's purity. This isn't a formality. It's proof that a given production batch meets requirements. Cold chain — polynucleotides are biologically active and require storage at a strictly controlled temperature from production to administration. A product that "sat around somewhere" without temperature control may have altered activity or compromised sterility.

Polynucleotides versus other biostimulators — where's the difference

It's worth distinguishing polynucleotides from the broader category of biostimulators, because the two terms are often used interchangeably. They aren't the same thing. Biostimulators — such as collagen-stimulating products based on poly-L-lactic acid or calcium hydroxyapatite — work by stimulating fibroblasts to produce collagen. Polynucleotides work differently. They activate adenosine A2A receptors, which triggers repair processes in connective tissue at the cellular level. It's a more precise mechanism, with different indications and a different results profile. Confusing the two categories leads to mismatched expectations — and to disappointment that comes not from an ineffective treatment, but from choosing the wrong tool.

Both women and men use polynucleotides, though for somewhat different reasons and in different areas. For women, the most common indication is general revitalisation of facial skin, the neck and décolletage, the eye area, and recovery after intensive acne treatment. The result they're looking for is skin that feels springier and "fuller from within", without losing firmness. For men, polynucleotides work particularly well for regenerating tired, grey skin — especially after long stretches of stressful working conditions — and as support after laser treatments or in areas exposed to the sun. Men's thicker skin absorbs the product differently, but the mechanism of action stays the same.

Before you choose — what to look out for

A good decision about polynucleotides starts with a consultation. During it, the doctor should assess your skin condition and indications, and openly explain which product they use and why. That's not an intrusive or awkward question. It's a question about your own safety. A salon that understands this will answer without irritation and without brushing you off.

Second point: biostimulation results aren't immediate. Polynucleotides trigger processes that develop in the tissue over weeks. The first changes are visible after a few days, but the full result of a series of sessions can only be judged a few weeks after the last one. Expecting results "by the next day" is one of the more common misunderstandings. A good result builds gradually — that's exactly what makes it look natural.