Does Cosmelan really work on melasma?

This is one of the few treatments with documented efficacy for melasma — the most difficult type of hyperpigmentation. It works differently from a classic peel: it not only exfoliates, but also inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that produces melanin. That is why the effect is longer-lasting than with surface lightening alone — provided consistent home care and SPF are maintained.

When will I see results?

The first lightening is visible under the peeling skin, within the first few days. A clear evening of tone appears once peeling ends, and we assess the full result only after several weeks of the Cosmelan 2 cream course — not right after the treatment.

How long will the result last?

With daily SPF 50+, usually 12–18 months. Without regular protection, hyperpigmentation can return much sooner, since UV reactivates melanin even on cloudy days. SPF isn't a recommendation — it's a condition for maintaining the result.

Applying the mask itself is painless. Discomfort — tightness, stinging, itching — appears during the peeling phase, strongest at its peak. Melan Recovery soothes these sensations, and most people describe the whole process as manageable and worth the result.

How many days will I be peeling?

The intensive peeling phase usually lasts a few days. During this time, the face is red and sheds in layers — this is an expected part of the mechanism, not a complication. That's why we schedule the treatment for a time when you can get through this week calmly, ideally with remote work.

Do I need to take time off?

You don't have to, but most people plan the peeling phase around fewer in-person meetings — redness and flaking are visible. Remote work or the start of a holiday is a convenient option.

Can I pick at the peeling skin?

No. This is the most important rule: don't scratch, pick, or pull off the shedding skin — it risks irritation, and even new hyperpigmentation. Let the skin peel on its own and use Melan Recovery.

Cosmelan or Dermamelan — which is right for me?

Cosmelan for mild to moderate hyperpigmentation (sun-related, post-inflammatory, milder melasma). Dermamelan for deep, resistant melasma and chloasma. The decision is made during consultation, after assessing the type and depth of hyperpigmentation and your phototype — it's not a case of "stronger means better."

Is Cosmelan safe for darker skin tones?

Yes — for darker phototypes, where laser can be risky (possible post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), enzymatic depigmentation is often the safer route. We adjust mask exposure time more carefully, on an individual basis.

Can I be sure the product is genuine?

You have every right to ask. We work exclusively with genuine mesoestetic products from legitimate supply. A suspiciously low price or the absence of original packaging is a warning sign — with depigmentation, the product's origin matters as much as the technique.

Can a man shave during the course?

During the peeling phase, we skip the razor and classic shaving so as not to irritate the shedding skin — or at most, shave very gently. Once healed, you return to shaving as normal, with a mild foam and post-shave moisturising. We discuss this when planning the treatment.

Cosmelan

It doesn't cover up hyperpigmentation — it switches off the enzyme that produces it. The gold standard for melasma.

Price list

A treatment room at J'adore

MEDICAL PEELS

Even skin tone
for hyperpigmentation

Symmetrical brown patches on the cheeks, above the upper lip, on the forehead — melasma is the most difficult type of hyperpigmentation to remove, because it has a hormonal basis and returns as soon as the surface is exfoliated. Cosmelan by mesoestetic works differently from a classic peel: it does not merely remove the pigmented epidermis, but blocks tyrosinase — the enzyme that produces melanin.

It is a two-phase system: mask Cosmelan 1 applied in the clinic + cream Cosmelan 2 for continued use at home for several weeks. At J'adore Instytut the treatment is carried out by an experienced cosmetologist. Below you will find everything worth knowing before deciding on the treatment: whether it hurts, how many days you will be peeling, when you will see the effect and why SPF is not an option here, but a condition.

Melasma
Hormonal hyperpigmentation
Sun spots and lentigo
Uneven, "patchy" skin tone
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Hyperpigmentation that laser hasn't helped or has made worse

One salon treatment + several weeks of home care

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Duration: About an hour in the salon
Result: 12–18 months with daily SPF
Recovery: A few days of intensive peeling
Sessions: One salon treatment + several weeks of home care
Performed by: experienced cosmetologist

How it works

Most peels lighten the skin "from the top" — they exfoliate the pigmented epidermis and wait for lighter skin to grow back. With melasma, that's not enough: melanocytes carry on producing pigment, so the patches quickly return. Cosmelan works at the source — its active ingredients inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme without which skin can't produce melanin. Less enzyme means less new pigment, and existing pigment gradually fades.

This is a two-phase mesoestetic system, not a single mask. Phase 1 is the thick Cosmelan 1 mask applied in the salon, which you remove yourself at home after a set exposure time. Phase 2 is Cosmelan 2 cream, used at home for several weeks — this is what locks in the results and keeps hyperpigmentation from returning. Without the home phase, the whole protocol loses its point.

Three levels of skin in cross-section: the stratum corneum right at the top, the basal layer with its melanocytes beneath it, and deepest of all the dermis. The mask works within the epidermis and reaches the melanocytes in the basal layer, where the pigment is made. The specialist sets how long the mask stays on and your home care.

Good to know: the key to success isn't the "strength" of the peel — it's consistency. Melanin reactivates under UV within days. That's why the success of Cosmelan depends not on the treatment itself, but on consistency: home cream and daily SPF for many weeks afterwards.

Ideal for

Melasmasymmetrical, brownish patches on the cheeks, forehead and above the upper lip; usually hormonal in origin.
Hormonal hyperpigmentationafter contraception, HRT, or pregnancy; often extensive and long-standing.
Sun spots and lentigothe result of years of UV exposure, "age spots" on the face, hands, décolletage.
Uneven, "patchy" skin toneskin with multiple small areas of hyperpigmentation from different causes.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)dark marks left by acne, injury, or previous treatments; difficult for surface peels to address.
Hyperpigmentation that laser hasn't helped or has made worseCosmelan works enzymatically, not thermally, so it doesn't carry the risk of a reverse reaction the way light-based treatments can with melasma.
Cosmelan is the right choice for stubborn hyperpigmentation — when lighter brightening peels or home creams are no longer enough. For mild, recent, uneven tone, it's sometimes more sensible to start with a gentler course — we'll determine this during consultation.

Female zone and male zone

What's different

For her

Your skin remembers every pregnancy, every pill, every midday sun without cream

In women, melasma is usually hormonal in origin — it appears or worsens during pregnancy, with contraception, or with HRT. It can be extensive and symmetrical, and attempts to "mask" it with repeated peels often irritate it further. This is a classic area for Cosmelan in women — depigmentation at the source rather than fighting the symptom.

What we work with

melasma on the cheeks, forehead, above the lip — hormonal background (pregnancy, contraception);
sun-related hyperpigmentation and "patchy" tone after years without consistent SPF;
post-inflammatory marks from acne (PIH), also on the décolletage;
situations where laser can be risky with melasma — Cosmelan is a safer route.

For him

Skin that looks older than you are — and what to do about it

In men, hyperpigmentation is usually the result of years without sunscreen — sun spots on the forehead, temples, an uneven line between face and neck, and post-inflammatory marks from acne and acne scarring. On top of that, skin tends to be oilier, and there's often no SPF habit. This is an area for Cosmelan in men — evening out skin tone without altering features.

What we work with

sun spots on the forehead and temples — the result of no SPF habit;
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne scarring after years of acne;
an uneven face-to-neck colour line in people who work or train in the sun;
the shaving question: during the peeling phase, we pause razor shaving to avoid irritating skin.

Good to know: the depigmentation mechanism is the same for women and men — tyrosinase doesn't distinguish by gender. What differs is the cause of the patches (hormones vs. sun) and skin thickness, which affects the choice of mask exposure time. That's why the protocol is always set individually, never "off the internet."

Safety

What really determines the result

With depigmentation, results and safety depend on a few things worth asking about at any salon — because "stronger" doesn't mean "better":

Who selects the treatment and how
Cosmelan and Dermamelan are not the same thing, and skin phototype changes the mask exposure time. At J'adore, the type of peel, its strength and duration are selected by an experienced cosmetologist after analysing the skin and phototype — not from a rigid template.
Whether the product is genuine
We use only genuine mesoestetic products from legitimate supply. A counterfeit or poorly stored peel means unpredictable results and a real risk of irritation or reverse hyperpigmentation.
Do you get a plan, not just the treatment
Cosmelan only works as a whole: mask + a several-week home course + SPF. We plan the series and the aftercare in advance; "a peel sold without a home plan" is the most common reason the result doesn't last.

Red flags with depigmentation ·

a depigmenting peel offered "on the spot", without consultation or phototype assessment;
no clear SPF or home-cream instructions after the treatment — this isn't an add-on, it's half the protocol;
the promise that "stronger means faster" — with melasma, excess irritates and can trigger reverse hyperpigmentation;
a product from an uncertain source, without genuine mesoestetic packaging;
treatment sold without a treatment plan and follow-up;
starting the course in summer, in full sun, without planned protection.

MEDICAL PEELS

What to expect during your visit

Consultation and analysis of hyperpigmentationthe cosmetologist assesses the type and depth of the spots (hormonal melasma, sun-induced or post-inflammatory), your phototype and your expectations, rules out contraindications and selects the peel (Cosmelan or Dermamelan). We take "before" photo documentation.
Skin preparationmakeup removal and thorough degreasing; we check for any active inflammation or recent tanning.
Application of the Cosmelan 1 maskan even, thick layer of product over the whole area. You leave the salon with the mask on.
Exposure and removal at homeyou wear the mask for a set time, then remove it yourself at home following precise instructions. We match the timing to your skin and phototype, so following instructions closely is key.
Home course and follow-upCosmelan 2 cream and Melan Recovery begin, along with daily SPF; we schedule a follow-up to assess your skin's reaction and guide you through the coming weeks.

From the cosmetologist's chair

The most common misunderstanding: people think Cosmelan "happens" in the salon. In the salon, we only apply the mask — the most important part happens at home: removing the mask on time, correctly, and keeping up the cream and SPF consistently over the following weeks. These seemingly mundane steps are what decide whether the result is spectacular or average.

Contraindications

When to postpone the treatment

Some contraindications are permanent, others temporary — in which case we simply postpone the treatment until the situation passes. We go through the full list individually during consultation.

We don't perform it

Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Active herpes — chemical peels are a recognised trigger for reactivating herpes. If there's an active outbreak, we postpone until it heals. With recurrent herpes, it's worth discussing antiviral prophylaxis before the treatment.
Active inflammation, fresh irritation, and open lesions — in the treatment area.
Recent tanning or sunburn — we wait until skin has cooled down and recovered.
Active treatment with oral retinoids (isotretinoin) — a break is required after finishing therapy.
Tendency to keloid scarring
Allergy or previous reaction — to ingredients in the product (including azelaic acid, kojic acid, phytic acid, retinol).
Inability to use SPF 50+ — for the whole duration of the course — without it, the protocol has no point.

From the cosmetologist's chair

The most commonly overlooked issue: herpes. A peel can "wake" the virus, even when the outbreak is elsewhere on the face. If you have active herpes, we postpone by a few days. If it recurs regularly for you, mention it during consultation so we can plan antiviral prophylaxis before the protocol.

This isn't a complete list — we'll discuss your medications, health conditions, phototype and previous treatments individually during consultation.

What to expect

No surprises

Most importantly: peeling is part of the mechanism, not a complication. Applying the mask itself is painless. Discomfort — a feeling of tightness, stinging, itching — appears during the peeling phase, most intensely at its peak. Melan Recovery soothes these sensations, and most people describe the whole process as "manageable and worth the result."

Faza 1.treatment daydegreasing the skin → application of the Cosmelan 1 mask in the salon → leaving with the mask on
Faza 2.after exposureremoving the mask yourself at home at the set time → Melan Recovery + SPF
Faza 3.first few daysredness and tightness; peeling begins — don't pull off the shedding skin
Faza 4.peak peelingskin flakes in layers; strongest stinging and itching — soothed by Melan Recovery
Faza 5.after peelingnew, lighter skin; the Cosmelan 2 cream course begins
Faza 6.following weeksdaily Cosmelan 2 + SPF → gradual, visible evening of skin tone

Clients sometimes call on day three, worried that they're "peeling too much." That's exactly what should be happening — peak peeling looks dramatic, but it's expected and temporary. There's one rule: don't pull or scratch off the shedding skin, as it risks irritation and… new hyperpigmentation.

From the cosmetologist's chair

What's normal in the first few days

redness and a feeling of tightness right after removing the mask;
intense peeling in layers over several days — the face "sheds", this is expected;
temporary stinging and itching, strongest in the middle of the peeling phase;
already, under the peeling skin, a lighter tone is visible — a good sign.

We assess full results only after several weeks of home care, not right after peeling ends. With consistent SPF, an even skin tone usually lasts 12–18 months; without protection, hyperpigmentation can return much sooner.

Portfolio

Photos from the institute

A record of the work in our salons — the place where we publish treatment frames and, after photo sessions, results.

01 / 04

A record of results — in preparation. We publish photographs of our clients only with their consent.

Cosmelan and your lifestyle

What's fine, and when

With depigmentation, most questions aren't about the treatment itself, but about what comes after: sun, makeup, sport, active skincare, holidays. There's one overriding rule — protect freshly renewed skin from UV and irritation, since these are what reverse the result.

Sun and SPF
SPF 50+ daily, no exceptions
This is the most important rule of the whole protocol. You apply SPF 50+ every day for many weeks — including on cloudy days and in winter. UV reactivates melanin within days and can undo the entire treatment. Without consistent SPF, Cosmelan has no point.
Holidays and sunbeds
postpone for the duration of the course
Intensive sunbathing, a beach holiday, and sunbeds are the enemy of depigmentation. That's why we plan the protocol for the cooler part of the year, away from any holidays booked in full sun.
Makeup
after the peeling phase
During intensive peeling, we pause foundation and heavy makeup, to avoid clogging or irritating shedding skin. Once healed, you return to makeup normally — always with an SPF base.
Retinol and acids from home
pause for the duration of the course
No personal retinoids, acids, or exfoliating "actives" during the protocol — you use only what we give you (Cosmelan 2, Melan Recovery, SPF). Combining these with home actives risks over-irritation.
Sport and sweat
take it easier during the peeling phase
At peak peeling, intense exercise and heavy sweating can sting and irritate skin. Return to full training once skin has healed; after training, rinse off sweat gently, without scrubbing.
Sauna and pool
pause until healed
High temperatures and chlorinated water further irritate skin during the peeling phase. We put off sauna and pool visits until peeling has stopped.

Cosmelan

Frequently asked questions

There are several routes to treating hyperpigmentation, and they aren't interchangeable — especially with melasma, where the choice of method can determine success or make things worse:

Cosmelan / Dermamelan
depigmentation at the source
- inhibits tyrosinase — less new melanin
- melasma, hormonal and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- protocol: salon treatment + home course
not a "quick peel for tomorrow" — requires a series of peeling days and several weeks of cream
Surface peel
lightens "from the top"
- mandelic, azelaic, ferulic, etc.
- gentle, short healing time, in series
- good for mild, recent uneven tone
rarely enough on its own for deep melasma — pigment returns without addressing it at the source
Laser for hyperpigmentation
breaks down pigment with light
- effective on sun spots and lentigo
- targeted, without a week of full-face peeling
can be risky with hormonal melasma — heat can make it worse; Cosmelan is usually the safer choice here

Combine with

And in what order

Cosmelan is a "solo" course — during it we do not combine it with other active treatments. Only after the course is completed does the freshly renewed skin work excellently with treatments that improve quality. The order and intervals are decided by the cosmetologist during the consultation, but the logic is constant:

+ SPF 50+ permanently
+ Needle mesotherapy (after the course)
+ Mandelic / azelaic peel
+ Brightening course
Resistant melasma → Dermamelan

During the course of treatment (several weeks)no laser, peels, mesotherapy or at-home retinol; only Cosmelan 2, Melan Recovery and SPF.
After the course + needle mesotherapyingredients penetrate better into renewed skin; good synergy for tone and hydration.
After the course + light maintenance peelssuch as mandelic or azelaic, to maintain an even tone.
Always: SPF 50+this is not an "add-on treatment", but a permanent condition; without it, the effect of any combination reverses.

I most often hear: “I want a laser for these spots”. For ordinary sun spots — great. But if it is hormonal melasma, a laser can lighten it for a while and then make it worse. A simple rule: a single, sun-related spot → a laser can be a good choice; symmetrical, hormonal melasma → first depigmentation of the Cosmelan type. What you have on your face, we identify during a consultation.

QuestionDoes Cosmelan really work on melasma?
AnswerThis is one of the few treatments with documented efficacy for melasma — the most difficult type of hyperpigmentation. It works differently from a classic peel: it not only exfoliates, but also inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that produces melanin. That is why the effect is longer-lasting than with surface lightening alone — provided consistent home care and SPF are maintained.
QuestionWhen will I see results?
AnswerThe first lightening is visible under the peeling skin, within the first few days. A clear evening of tone appears once peeling ends, and we assess the full result only after several weeks of the Cosmelan 2 cream course — not right after the treatment.
QuestionHow long will the result last?
AnswerWith daily SPF 50+, usually 12–18 months. Without regular protection, hyperpigmentation can return much sooner, since UV reactivates melanin even on cloudy days. SPF isn't a recommendation — it's a condition for maintaining the result.

Have another question?Ask at your consultation

Price list

Treatment options

Cosmelan — treatment at J'adore Instytut — product

Cosmelan — full protocol

In-salon mask + Cosmelan 2 + Melan Recovery + SPF

Booking

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Choose the area and the salon — book online straight away.

Area

Cosmelan — full protocolSee price listYou'll confirm the exact amount at the salon — online booking works as usual.

Salon

Warsaw, Żelazna 59

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Prefer to call? Żelazna 573 569 431 · Mińska 732 228 806 · Karmelicka 732 228 846

See the full range of treatments

Cosmelan performed in three clinics J'adore Instytut — two in Warsaw and one in Kraków. At each, the treatment is carried out by an experienced cosmetologist, and the choice between Cosmelan and Dermamelan is made during a consultation with an analysis of the hyperpigmentation.

WarsawŻelazna — WolaŻelazna 59 · tel. +48 573 569 431
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WarsawMińska — Luxury LoftMińska 29A · tel. +48 732 228 806
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KrakowKarmelicka — ŚródmieścieKarmelicka 45 · tel. +48 732 228 846
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From the specialist's room

Cosmelan is not a one-off peel, but a course of treatment spread over several weeks. The in-clinic procedure itself is only the start — the result depends on whether you consistently use the Cosmelan 2 cream and SPF at home. That is why we schedule a follow-up and guide you through the entire course, rather than leaving you with a product and instructions.

Planning a holiday, a wedding, or the sunny season? It's best to start Cosmelan during the cooler part of the year, with time to spare — hyperpigmentation lightens over several weeks, and UV exposure during the course can reverse the results. We'll set a timeframe to suit your calendar during consultation.

Experienced cosmetologist

Consultation and assessment before the treatment

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Start with a consultation

The result lasts12–18 months with daily SPFJ’adore Instytut

This text is for informational purposes only and does not replace a consultation. The choice of peel (Cosmelan or Dermamelan), the strength of the protocol, the length of the series and any contraindications are determined by a cosmetologist/specialist during an individual consultation with a skin and phototype assessment. Cosmelan is a beauty treatment; the term "medical" in the peel category name refers to the class and strength of the product, not to the fact that it's performed by a doctor — it is carried out by an experienced cosmetologist, not a doctor.

Home care