A treatment room at J'adoreMEDICAL PEELS
Symmetrical, grey-brown patches on the cheeks, forehead and above the upper lip that return every summer and do not fade despite creams, peels or vitamin C serums — this is most often melasma: a chronic, hormone-dependent pigmentation disorder. Dermamelan (mesoestetic) is the most intensive depigmenting treatment available in clinic — stronger than Cosmelan — designed precisely for these stubborn cases.
It is not a one-off brightening peel: it is a professional mask applied in clinic + several weeks of home care, together forming a coherent treatment course spread over approximately six months. At J'adore Instytut the treatment is carried out by an experienced cosmetologist. Below you will find everything worth knowing before you decide on such an involved course: whether it really works, whether it stings, how many days you will be peeling, when you will see the effect and why SPF is a condition here, not an add-on.
one in-clinic treatment + a few weeks of at-home care (about 6 months in total)
How it works
Melasma isn't "dirt on the skin" or an ordinary mark you can scrub away. It's melanin overproduction triggered by hormones and light. That's why it can't be lightened permanently with one strong peel. You need to calm the pigmentation mechanism itself, not just remove the top layer of the epidermis.
Dermamelan does this in a multi-directional way. On the one hand, it inhibits tyrosinase — the key enzyme in pigment production — and calms overactive melanocytes. On the other — it gently exfoliates the epidermis with accumulated melanin, revealing lighter skin underneath. And the home-care phase maintains this block for the following weeks, so the pigment does not return immediately. That is why we talk about a course of treatment, not a single procedure.
Did you know: mesoestetic has documented the effectiveness of this treatment in a very large group of patients across several dozen countries — hence its reputation as the "gold standard" in melasma. But the same power that delivers results requires discipline: without SPF and the home-care phase, even the best treatment will not last.
Ideal for
This isn't a treatment "for anyone with any kind of mark". A single, fresh patch of pigmentation or dull, tired-looking skin often responds well enough to a milder peel or a brightening course. We reserve Dermamelan for genuinely stubborn problems — and it's the cosmetologist who assesses whether it's the right choice.
Women's and men's needs
In women, melasma is most often hormone-dependent — it appears or worsens during pregnancy, after contraception, or during menopause. The typical pattern is symmetrical patches on the cheeks, forehead and above the upper lip. This is a classic indication for Dermamelan in women: the protocol targets the pigmentation mechanism itself, not just the "surface symptom".
What we work with
In men, melasma is rarer, but when it does occur, it can be exceptionally stubborn — sun-induced melanosis more often dominates after years of outdoor work, sport and no SPF, along with post-acne pigmentation. Male skin is thicker and oilier, and a lack of sun-protection habits is the biggest threat to how long results last. This is the specifics of Dermamelan in men.
What we work with
From the cosmetologist's chair
The most common difference in practice? SPF habits. Clients often already have the habit — for men, it's usually new. And with depigmentation, this isn't a cosmetic extra — it's the condition for keeping the result: without daily SPF, melanocytes get back to work, and patches can rebuild faster than they cleared.
Does it hurt, does it sting
Applying the mask in the salon is pain-free — the cosmetologist applies a thick, even layer of the product over the whole face. Any discomfort, if it appears, comes later: while wearing the mask at home and during the first days of flaking.
Most importantly: flaking isn't a complication — it's part of the protocol. It's under the peeling skin that a new, lighter layer is revealed. That's why you must never force the skin off — speeding up this process is the easiest route to irritation and new pigmentation.
MEDICAL PEELS
Dermamelan and Cosmelan
These are two depigmentation treatments from the same brand (mesoestetic), based on a similar concept but with different strengths. The choice depends on the depth of the hyperpigmentation, the phototype and the treatment history — and it is the cosmetologist who assesses which one is appropriate:
Stronger doesn't automatically mean better. If the problem is milder, Dermamelan can be "too much" — longer flaking with no real advantage in results. That's why the decision is made after assessing the skin, not simply by choosing "the strongest one".
Safety
With a protocol this strong, success and safety come down to a few things worth asking about in any salon:
At J'adore, Dermamelan is carried out by an experienced cosmetologist, who assesses phototype and the type of pigmentation. Incorrect qualification (for example, mistaking melasma for another condition) is the most common cause of disappointment.
We use only original mesoestetic products from legitimate sources. "Dermamelan" from an uncertain source means unpredictable composition and a real risk of irritation.
An in-clinic mask without a home-care phase and without an SPF plan is money down the drain — the result will not last. A full course of treatment includes a maintenance cream and clear recommendations.
Skin preparation, timing away from strong sun, follow-up checks — these aren't formalities, they're conditions for safety and lasting results.
A red flag — when it's better to walk away ·
Contraindications
Some contraindications are permanent, others temporary — in that case we simply postpone the treatment until the situation resolves. We go through the full list individually at consultation.
From the cosmetologist's chair
The thing most often overlooked isn't the list of conditions — it's being realistic about SPF and sun exposure. If someone knows they're flying on holiday in two weeks, or has no intention of wearing sunscreen, we honestly advise against starting. It's better to postpone the protocol than to begin it destined to relapse.
If you get recurring cold sores, be sure to mention it at consultation — even if the outbreak only ever appears "on the lips". A peel can trigger it, so if you have recurrences, it's worth discussing antiviral prevention before the treatment. It's better to plan this calmly than to interrupt flaking across the whole face.
Step by step in the salon
The in-salon visit is only the first stage — what matters most happens over the following days and weeks at home. Here's how it unfolds, in stages rather than minutes:
Some clients write after two days, "I think it's not working, I'm just peeling". This is exactly the stage at which peeling should be happening — we assess the brightening effect after the epidermis has shed, which usually means not until the second week, and the full effect after months. Patience is part of the treatment here.
Portfolio
A record of the work in our salons — the place where we publish treatment frames and, after photo sessions, results.
A record of results — in preparation. We publish photographs of our clients only with their consent.
MEDICAL PEELS · Dermamelan
You won't see the result straight after the mask comes off — first the skin flakes, and only afterwards does the lightening become visible. This is a process measured in months, not days.
Duration is measured in months and depends almost entirely on sun protection and keeping up the home care. Melasma is a chronic condition — Dermamelan gives a long remission, but doesn't "cure it once and for all". With further hormonal fluctuations or intense sun without SPF, pigmentation can return; when it does, maintenance care helps, not another, stronger round of flaking.
Dermamelan and your lifestyle
Most questions aren't about the mask itself, but about what comes after: sun, makeup, sauna, sport, home skincare. There's one rule — during flaking and throughout the whole protocol, we protect the fresh skin from UV and avoid adding further irritation.
This is the single most important rule of the whole protocol. UV is the main activator of melanocytes — even brief unprotected exposure can undo weeks of progress. SPF 50+ every day, regardless of the weather, plus a hat and physical protection.
Sunbeds and deliberate tanning are ruled out for the entire course. Planning a holiday in full sun? Postpone the start of the treatment — this isn't a whim, it's a condition for effectiveness.
During intensive flaking, we hold off on foundation and powder — skin needs to heal, not be covered up. You return to makeup once the epidermis has settled and the cosmetologist gives the go-ahead.
High temperatures, chlorine and sweat further irritate fresh skin and increase redness. Hold off until flaking has finished.
We stop strong exfoliating acids and retinol before the treatment and don't return to them during the protocol without the cosmetologist's approval. Skin already gets a full dose of active ingredients from the product — adding more risks irritation.
Intense sweating during the flaking phase stings and irritates. Introduce lighter activity gradually, and gently cleanse and apply SPF after training.
Dermamelan
These methods aren't interchangeable — they target different problems and different depths. With hormonal melasma, the choice matters especially, because not every "pigmentation method" helps, and some can make it worse:
calms the pigmentation mechanism
not a "quick fix" — requires home care, SPF and several months; doesn't improve volume or wrinkles
refreshes and gently lightens
usually too weak for established melasma — treats the symptom, not the mechanism
targets pigment with energy
can be risky with hormonal melasma — heat can stimulate melanocytes and make the problem worse, especially with darker phototypes
Combine with
Dermamelan is a "standalone" course — during it, the skin receives a full dose of activity and we do not combine it in parallel with other strong treatments. Sensible combinations are scheduled before or after, and the intervals are decided by the cosmetologist:
The most common misunderstanding: "I'll just laser off these patches and be done with it." With melasma, this can be a trap — thermal energy can irritate melanocytes and darken the problem. That's why, when melasma is suspected, we turn to enzymatic depigmentation (Dermamelan/Cosmelan) rather than "burning it off".
Preparations and stages of treatment
Under the slogan "Dermamelan" lies a complete system, not a single product. The client does not choose a stage "off the shelf" — it is the cosmetologist who selects the treatment and guides them through the successive stages. For comparison, we also present the sister Cosmelan, as it is the most common alternative choice:
Intensive depigmentation mask with the highest concentration of actives — applied in the clinic, worn for several hours at home. This is the "starting" stage of the entire treatment.
Dla kogoStubborn melasma, deep and hormonal pigmentation, darker phototypes.
A cream for daily home use that keeps the pigmentation block in place for the following weeks and prevents it from returning. Without this phase, the result won't last.
Dla kogoThe home phase after the mask — the foundation of lasting results.
A gentler depigmenting treatment from the same brand — a professional mask + a maintenance cream, with shorter exfoliation. An alternative when Dermamelan would be "too strong".
Dla kogoLighter and moderate pigmentation, lighter phototypes.
Fact: Where do the differences in strength come from? From higher concentrations of pigmentation-inhibiting ingredients and a deeper mechanism of action in Dermamelan. Both protocols use tyrosinase inhibitors (kojic acid, azelaic acid/azeloglycine, phytic acid, butylresorcinol), supported by exfoliating and epidermal-renewal ingredients plus antioxidants — what sets them apart isn't "a different idea", but intensity and depth of action. That's why the choice belongs to the cosmetologist after assessing the skin, not to the client based on the name.
Price list
Dermamelan — protocol (in-salon mask + start of home care)
full depigmentation course
Choose the area and the salon — book online straight away.
Warsaw, Żelazna 59
Prefer to call? Żelazna 573 569 431 · Mińska 732 228 806 · Karmelicka 732 228 846
From the magazine
Editorial pieces on how this treatment works in practice — what happens during the session, how to prepare, where the limits are and what the first days after look like.
See also
The result lastsmany months of remission with consistent SPF useJ’adore Instytut
Informational text. The content above is for information and education only — it does not replace an individual consultation or diagnostic advice. Dermamelan is a beauty treatment; the term "medical" in the name of this peel category refers to the class and strength of the product, not to the treatment being performed by a doctor. Qualification for the treatment, the choice of protocol and its strength, the length of the series and any contraindications are all determined by a cosmetologist/specialist during consultation.
Home care
Cosmetics matched to what your skin needs after a treatment — so the clinic effect lasts longer.
hyperpigmentationSesdermaMANDELAC Liposomal SerumView in the shop(opens in a new tab)
sun protectionCell Fusion CAquatica Sunscreen 100 SPF 50+/PA++++View in the shop(opens in a new tab)
post-treatment regenerationMedMelanoSkinbiotic Elixir Probiotic Repair Serum 50 mlView in the shop(opens in a new tab)
hyperpigmentationPeel MissionMelasma & PIH Cream 50 mlView in the shop(opens in a new tab)
sun protectionDermaQuestSunArmor SPF50 30 mlView in the shop(opens in a new tab)
post-treatment regenerationVagheggiEmozioni Plus — Anti-Stress Face Mask 75mlView in the shop(opens in a new tab)
hyperpigmentationDermoMedicaTRX C Foam Cleanser 150 mlView in the shop(opens in a new tab)
hyperpigmentationMediderma1+1 Set — FR-Antiox MD Concentrate + Mela 360 Bellis TRX Brighter SPF 50View in the shop(opens in a new tab)
